Method of knitting patterned fabric



Nov. 3, 1959 N. LEVIN METHOD OF KNITTING PATTERNED FABRIC Filed July 17, 1956 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fl E- J.

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METHOD OF KNITTING PATTERNED FABRIC Filed July 17, 1956 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FEED FEED \ KE P FEED N94 ELI ca- 21 /FEED FEED e {0 N93 v INVENTOR. NA THAN LE V/N A TTOR/VE Y METHOD OF KNITTING PATTERNED FABRIC Nathan Levin, Trenton, NJ., assignor to Textile Machine Works, Wyomissing, Pa., 'a corporation of Pennsyl- Vania Application July 17, 1956, Serial No. 598,470

7 Claims. (Cl. 66-43) The present invention relates generally to the art of knitting and more particularly to an improved method of forming a weft knit fabric comprising suture joinedareas having an overplaid design therein.

In an application Serial No. 584,932, filed May 15, 1956, of which the present application is a continuationin-part, a method of knitting an overplaid design in suture joined areas of a tubular fabric is disclosed, the method generally providing for the operation of a four feed circular knitting machine in such manner that an opposite pair of feeds (also known as knitting stations) forms a corresponding first pair of fabric areas oppositely disposed in the tubular fabric while the intervening pair of feeds incorporates the overplaid design within the said first pair of fabric areas during the knitting thereof, and then reversing the action of each of the pairs of feeds for the formation of a second pair of overplaid-ornamented oppositely disposed fabric areas, the fabric areas of said first and second pairs and of other similar pairs thereof being arranged in alternation to form said tubular fabric.

In this method, during the knitting of each of the pairs of fabric areas, there are certain courses thereof wherein the overplaid design is not incorporated, and for the time these certain courses are being knitted, the overplaidincorporating-pair of feeds is inactive.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an improved method of knitting a tubular weft knit fabric of solid color suture joined areas of separate yarns in which an overplaid design is incorporated, and wherein, at times all of said areas are knit simultaneously while at other times certain only of said areas are knit simultaneously.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a method of operation for a four feed circular knitting machine by reciprocation thereof to form an overplaid design in portions of suture joined areas of tubular fabric wherein an opposite pair of feeds forms a corresponding diametrically opposite first pair of fabric areas while the intervening pair of feeds incorporates the overplaid design in certain courses of said first pair of fabric. areas during the knitting thereof, wherein the action of each pair of the feeds is reversed for the formation of a second pair of diametrically opposite overplaid ornamented fabric areas which are disposed in alternation with the areas of the first pair thereof and wherein all four feeds simultaneously form portions of the four fabric areas within which the overplaid design is not incorporated.

With these and other objects in view which will become apparent from the following detailed description of the illustrative embodiment of the invention shown in the accompanying drawings, the invention resides in the novel features of the present method of knitting, as hereinafter more particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a view of one side of a solid color stocking of the Argyle type with an overplaid design incorporated therein;

United States Patent ice Fig. 2 is a partial view of the opposite side of the stocking shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a view illustrating a step in the method of knitting upon a four feed circular knitting machine, the needle circle being indicated by a dot and dash line; and

Figs. 4 and 5 are views similar to Fig. 3 illustrating other ste s in the method of knitting.

The overplaid design is preferably incorporated in circular knit hosiery and is preferably made upon a multifeed machine of the type disclosed in the co-pending application of Benjamin Franklin Coile, Serial No. 329,801, filed January 6, 19-53, to which reference may be made. i Y

In the machine of the Coile application, hosiery of the Argyle or intarsia type having solid color, suture. joined, four-section patterns may be knit by more than one method. One method includes the formation of a complete course, containing suture joined partial courses of each of the four pattern sections, on the four feeds during each stroke of the machine. In a second method, the machine may be operated to knit an opposite pair of partial courses of a first pair of oppositepattern section fabric areas on correspondingly opposite feeds, with the other pair of feeds normally inactive, during each stroke of the machine. In this latter method, known as the fill-in system, the said first pair of opposite fabric areas is completed by their associated pair of feeds, after which the said pair of feeds is made inactive and the previously inactive pair of feeds is made active to knit the inbetween second pair of fabric areas. For example, in the case of diamond shaped areas of an Argyle pattern, the feeds Nos. 1 and 3 may knit an opposite pair of diamonds in an opposite pair of pattern sections with feeds Nos. 2 and 4 inactive, after which the feeds Nos. 2 and 4 may be activated to knit and fill-in an inbetween pair of diamonds in the intervening pair of pattern sections with feeds Nos. 1 and 3 inactive, and then these steps may be repeated. It will be understood that the contiguous diamonds are suture joined along their outlines as the held loops thereof on needles progressively retired during the knitting of any one pair of diamonds are knitted when the retired needles are progressively made active during knitting of the other pair of diamonds. The fill-in system is not limited to the formation of diamond shaped areas but may be used for solid color areas of other configuration. It is with the fill-in system of solid color knitting that my application Serial No. 584,932 and the present application are related, in connection with the incorporation of an overplaid design.

As illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, the stocking includes a top 10, a leg portion 11, and the usual foot portion 12. The leg portion is provided with a four pattern section diamond shaped Argyle pattern of which there are the upper opposite pair of side half diamonds 13 and 14; the intermediate opposite pair of side diamonds 15 and 16; the lower opposite pair of side half diamonds 17 and 18; the front and rear upper pair of diamonds 19 and 20; and the front and rear lower pair of diamonds 21 and 22. The various diamonds are joined along diagonally extending suture lines indicated at 23. The diamonds themselves, each of a solid color, are ornamented with an overplaid design comprising relatively narrow lines of stitches of contrastingly colored yarns, the overplaid design generally dividing each diamond into a group of four smaller diamonds. The diamond areas 13, 15 and 17 and the diamond areas 14, 16 and 18, are formed in an opposite pair of pattern sections while the diamond areas 19 and 21 and the diamond areas 20 and 22 are formed in the intervening pair of pattern Sections. It will be notedthat there is a number of wales common to adjacent pattern sections.

knitting continues, diverge to meet the mid-points of suture lines 23 about half way down the half diamond 113, then float vertically past the rear faces of front and rear diamonds 19 and 20 to the mid-points of the upper suture lines 23 of diamond 15 where they are incorporated along converging and then diverging lines to the mid -points of the lower suture lines 23 of the diamond 15 thenagain float vertically past the rear faces of the front and rear diamonds 21 and 22 to the mid-points of the 'uppersuturelines 23 of the lower half diamond 17 where they are incorporated along converging lines to meet and terminate generally at the mid-point of the widflSt portion of this half diamond.

Ina similar manner the side half diamonds 14 and 18 and the intermediate sidediamond 16 are provided with knit overplaid yarns e and f incorporated therein 1 during the knitting of these diamonds.

The front diamonds 19 and 21 are provided with knit I of these diamonds at the feeds Nos. 2 and 4 with the overplaid yarns d and h which start, respectively, at about the mid-point of the suture 23 between the diamond 19and the half diamond 13 and at about the mid-point 'of'the suture 23 between the diamond 19 and the half diamond 14, then, as the knitting proceeds, converge and diverge Within the diamond 19 to the mid-points of its lower suture lines 23, then float vertically to the mid-points of the upper suture lines 23 of the diamond 21 where they are incorporated along converging and "then diverging lines to terminate at the mid-points of the lower suture lines 23 of the diamond 21. 'In a similar manner the rear diamonds 20 and 22 are provided with knit overplaid yarns c and g incorporated therein during the knitting of these diamonds. It should be understood that the particular location of the overplaid yarns shown in the drawing is by way I of example only and that these may be placed wherever desired in accordance with any design desired by the knitter, the overplaid being incorporated in accordance with the particular needles selected to knit the overplaid yarns.

It should be noted that the overplaid design is incorr porated in the courses comprising approximately the mid- =dle half of each of the diamonds and in the courses of-the corresponding portions of the half diamonds, the courses of approximately the upper and lower quarter portions of each of the diamonds'and the courses of the corresponding portions of the half diamonds being without the overplaid design. For example, in the diamond '16 (and in the corresponding portions of the remaining diamonds and half diamonds) the overplaid design is incorporated in the partial courses between the points designated 24, 25, where the overplaid yarns e and meet the suture lines 23 and which represents approximately the middle half of the courses of the diamond 16, the partial courses between the point 24 and the top 26, and the partial courses between the point 25 and the bottom 27, of the diamond 16, being without overplaid design therein. The courses without design represent approximately the upper and lower quarter portions of the diamond 16.

Generally in the method of knitting set forth in application Serial No. 584,932, the side half diamonds 13 and 14, the side half diamonds 17 and 18, and the side full diamonds 15 and 16, are knit at feeds Nos. 2 and 4 (according to the diagrammatic arrangement of Fig. 3) of suitable body yarns 28 and 29, while the overplaid design is incorporated in portions of these diamonds at the feeds Nos. 1 and 3 with the yarns a, b, e, and f. The front and rear diamonds 19, 20, 21 and 22 are knit at feeds Nos. 1 and 3 (according to the diagrammatic arrangementof Fig. 5) of suitable body yarns 30 and 31, while the overplaid design is incorporated in portions yarns c, d, g and h. The body yarns may be changed as to color as desired so that the various diamonds may be contrastingly colored. It should be understood that, in the method of said application Serial No. 584,932, when any one pair of diamonds or half diamonds is being made on any one pair of opposite feeds, the other pair of feeds is used only for the purpose of knitting the overplaid yarns.

According to the method of knitting of the present invention, the opposite side half diamonds 13 and 14 are knit at feeds Nos. 2 and 4, of body yarns 28, 29, while at the same time the overplaid yarns a, b, e and f are incorporated therein at feeds Nos. 1 and 3. When the point of these half diamonds is reached where the overplaid yarns are no longer incorporated, that is the lower portions thereof, the machine feeding arrangement ischanged at feeds Nos. 1 and 3, as illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 4, so that while body yarns 28 and 29 continue to-be fed at feeds Nos. 2 and 4, the overplaid yarns a, b, e, and f are moved to inactive position at feeds Nos. 1 and 3 and are replaced by body yarns 30 and 31 which are placed in active position, and thereafter reciprocating knitting continues during which time the undecorated lower portions of half diamonds 13 and 14 are knit at feeds Nos. 2 and 4 of yarns 28, 29 while the undecorated upper quarter portions of front and rear diamonds 19 and 20 are simultaneously knit of the yarns 30 and 31. It will be understood that, in addition to the yarn changes at feeds Nos. 1 and 3, the appropriate other changes, including the proper needle selections, will be made in the pattern controls of the machine. In this manner, partial'non-decorated courses of four diamonds will be simultaneously formed at the four feeds. At each of the feeds Nos. 1 and 3 the knitting will start upon a relatively few needles per course and will continue upon progressively increased numbers of needles per course, while at feeds Nos. 2 and 4 the numbers of needles per course will be progressively decreased to a few needles per course. The partial diamond courses then being knit at feeds Nos. 1 and 3 will not be coursewise aligned in the finished stocking with the partial diamond courses being knit at the same time at feeds Nos. 2 and 4, but will be in different complete courses. Furthermore, the combined circumferential extent of the four partial courses being then knit at all four feeds upon a single stroke will be less than that of a complete course of the finished stocking, and these particular partial courses will not be suture joined to each other, but will be suture joined to other partial courses of the knitted tube.

Reciprocating knitting continues upon the four feeds until the point is reached in the diamonds 19 and 20 at which it is desired to introduce the overplaid yarns c, d, g, and h, at which time the half diamonds 13 and 14 will have been completed and accordingly the yarn arrangement may be changed from that shown in Fig. 4 to that shown in Fig. 5 wherein the overplaid yarns c, d, g, and h are in active feeding positions at feeds Nos. 2 and 4, replacing the inactive positioned yarns 28 and 29. Knitting then continues, according to Fig. 5, for the middle portions of diamonds 19 and 20, with the diamonds being knit at feeds Nos. 1 and 3 of body yarns 30 and 31 while the overplaid yarns c, d, g, and h are incorporated therein at feeds Nos. 2 and 4. For the final quarter of diamonds 19 and 20, and for the first quarter of the diamonds 15 and 16, the set-up is again changed to that shown in Fig. 4, and four partial diamond courses are simultaneously knit at the four feeds of the four body yarns 28, 29, 30 and 31.

When the middle portions of the diamonds 15 and 16 are to be knit, the yarn arrangement is changed'to that shown in Fig. 3 so that the middle portions of these diamonds are knit of body yarns 28 and 29 at feeds Nos. 2

.and 4. and are ornamented with overplaid yarns a, b, e,

monds 15 and 16 and the first quarters of diamonds 21 and 22, the yarn arrangement is once again changed to that of Fig. 4. It will be understood that the remaining portions of the diamonds 21 and 22 and the half diamonds 17 and 18 Will be knit in a manner similar to the method above described. r

Generally speaking, the lower non-decorated quarter portions of one pair of opposite diamonds and the upper nondecorated quarter portions of the intervening pair of opposite diamonds are simultaneousiy knit upon four feeds of the machine by reciprocating l: o v.- nie the decorated middle portions or" any one pair or amonds is knit upon a corresponding opposite pair of feeds at the same time that the overplaid design for that pair of diamonds is knit at the other pair of opposite feeds of the machine.

While the improved method of knitting, which includes the formation of portions of all four diamond sections simultaneously, has been described in connection with a particular manner of incorporating the overp aid design in the diamond sections,-it will be understood tnat it is not so limited and may be used in connection with other ways of incorporating the overplaid design, or may be used separately therefrom or in connection with other methods of knitting.

Having thus described my invention in full detail, it will be understood that these details need not be strictly adhered to and that various changes and modifications may be made all falling within the scope of the invention as defined by the following claims,

I claim:

1. A method of forming a tubular fabric by reciprocating knitting upon a circular knitting machine, said fabric having four suture joined fabric areas portions of each of which have an overplaid design incorporated therein, including the step of simultaneously forming portions of each of said four areas and the step of simultaneously forming the overplaid design portions of each area of an opposed pair of said areas While discontinuing the formation of the other pair thereof.

2. A method of forming a tubular fabric by reciproeating knitting upon a circular knitting machine, said fabric having a plurality of circumferentially spaced suture joined fabric areas of which portions thereof are ornamented with an overplaid design, including the step of simultaneously forming the oyerplaid design portions of a pair of said areas While discontinuing the formation of other of said areas, and the step of simultaneously forming portions of all of said areas.

3. A method of forming a tubular fabric by reciprocating knitting upon a circular knitting machine, said fabric having a plurality of circumferentially spaced suture joined fabric areas of which at least certain of said areas have a design in portions thereof, including the step of simultaneously forming the design portion of a pair of said areas while discontinuing the formation of other of said areas, and the step of simultaneously forming portions of all of said areas.

4. A method of forming a tubular fabric by reciprocating knitting upon a circular knitting machine, said fabric having at least four diamond shaped suture joined areas each of which has an overplaid design incorporated in the mid-portions thereof, including the step of simultaneously forming the non-design upper portions of an opposite pair of said areas and the non-design lower portions of the other pair of said areas, and the step of simultaneously forming the overplaid design portion of one of said pair of areas while discontinuing the formation of the other pair thereof.

5. A method of reciprocating knitting for a circular knitting machine which includes the step of simultaneously forming design portions of pattern areas on opposite sides of a stocking, the step of simultaneously forming nonalesign portions of said pattern areas and non-design portions of other pattern areas which are disposed between said first named pattern areas, and the step of simultaneously forming design portions of said other pattern areas while discontinuing the formation of said first named patte m areas.

6. A method of knitting on a circle of needles of a circular knitting machine having at least four knitting stations and adapted to reciprocate to knit at said stations, including the step of knitting a body yarn at each of an opposite pair of said stations to simultaneously form courses of a pair of spaced fabric sections, the step of knitting overplaid yarns at each of the other par of said stations to incorporate an oveiplaid design in portions of said fabric sections during the knitting thereof, the step of changing said overplaid yarns to body yarns at each of said other pair of stations, and the step of knitting body yarns upon said four stations, said last step continuing the knitting of said pair of fabric sections at said opposite stations and at the same time simultaneously forming courses of another pair of spaced fabric sections at said other pair of stations.

7. A, method of knitting on a circle of needles of a circular knitting machine having at least four knitting stations and adapted to reciprocate to knit at said stations, including the step of knitting a body yarn at each of an opposite pair of said stations to simultaneously form courses of a pair of spaced fabric sections, the step of knitting overplaid yarns at each of the other pair of said stations to incorporate an oyerplaid design in portions of said pair of fabric sections during the knitting thereof, the step of knitting body yarns upon said four stations, said last named step continuing the knitting of said pair of fabric sections at said opposite pair of stations and at the same time simultaneously forming courses of a second pair of spaced fabric sections at said other pair of stations, and the step of knitting overplaid yarns at each of said opposite pair of stations while continuing the knitting of body yarns at said other pair of stations to incorporate an overplaid design in portions of said second pair of fabric sections during the knitting thereof.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,217,022 Lawson et al. Oct. 8, 1940 2,626,516 Green Jan. 27, 1953.

2,642,732 Thurston June 23, 1953 2,680,961 Thurston June 15, 1954 2,856,762 Gell Oct. 21, 1958 FOREIGN PATENTS 790,141 Great Britain Feb. 5, 1958 

